|||
14:08: On the platform saying goodbye to Aisling at the door of her train, my heart broken. The sun is shining from the sky and tears are rolling down my cheeks.
14:15: The train has rolled away. My heart feels like a stone in my chest.
14:26: I’ve collected my tickets for my journey back to Nancy tomorrow and now I’m on the leafy square in front of the station in the blazing sunshine. It’s weird to stay sad in this weather. I’m going to visit the Palais du Tau, the former archbishop’s palace beside the cathedral.
16:04: Emerging into the sunlight again from the Palais du Tau — so named because it’s T-shaped. It provides an awe-inspiring history of the cathedral, including many original sculptures damaged by the bombardment of the cathedral during the first world war, including gargoyles still stuffed with roofing lead which melted in the fire. They all appear to vomit lead, very disconcerting.
OK, back to Melanie and Eric’s place to plan my next steps South and East from Nancy. I’ve arranged to stay an extra night and take the train back to Nancy from Reims at about 11:00 tomorrow.
16:52: Back in the apartment.
17:20: Planning my route out of Nancy. I need to get back in my stride.
In outline: Head south along the Moselle river to Épinal (pop 33,000). Cross the Vosges1 to Colmar, then cross the Rhine at Neuf Brisach/Vogelgrun to Breisach am Rhein and the Freiburg im Breisgau.
Getting accross the Vosges: It’s all pasture and dairy farms so no wild camping.2
MAPS.ME outlines the following routes (88km, 17h 39m):
