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07:38: This is the brightest, noisiest campsite I’ve been on so far. The kids spent all night going back and forth to the loos in little groups. The traffic on the main road was unceasing, especially the huge trucks, with that sound I’ve come to detest: the murderous howling blare of a giant diesel engine going full tilt through the landscape.
The lights on the café terrace directly above the camping area were on all night, as were other lights around the place. A twitter bird started up sometime before dawn so that prompted me to finally put my earplugs in. Instant peace. I could also have used my headband as a blindfold to keep the light out. I’ll do that tonight. On the plus side, the ground is level and unzipping my sleeping bag entirely works a treat. It’s wide enough for me to have a piece to lie on and a piece over my body and the ventilation options are much better. The Russian guy had left by half five and Magnus left a few moments ago. I’ll take his camping spot, which should shield me from the café terrace and its lights. I’m definitely gaining weight — I’ve developed a spare tyre.1 I’ll have to work to shift that.
So, I’ve had three quite sleep-deprived nights now. I didn’t sleep well in the youth hostel as I was too warm under the quilt. I hadn’t opened the window. Even as I was putting the quilt in its cover I was thinking it was overkill. Far better to just sleep under the cover and pull up the quilt as I need it. Anyway, that’s done. Today is today and I now have a strategy to get some decent kip tonight. I’m going to go and have a wash, and wash my socks, jocks and t-shirt and then I’ll get breakfast — or maybe set up camp first where Magnus was.
09:19: Showered, dressed, clothes washed. Basha set up in a very agreeable arrangement next to the fence, with much more privacy that before. The showers are quite tolerable — you drop in a coin and hope it lasts until you’re completely rinsed off. I had decided that my bum crack was rinsed when the water stopped. I was left standing there with my hand in the cleft.
I’m about to boil up some porridge now. I’m carrying endless amounts of food that I just don’t need in Germany, so I might as well use it up. Tonight’s dinner — or lunch — might be asparagus soup couscous. I cannot wait. Or maybe I can.
10:19: Finally ready to go for a wander into town. I’ve finished breakfast and washed up. Among the redundant things that I’m carrying are matches (unused since I bought a lighter months ago) honey and butter. I finally finished the last of the hot chocolate. On the cold, cold mornings during the early part of the trip, having hot food available was a real life saver and morale-booster. Now that I can spend an entire night with my sleeping bag gaping open, not so much.
Similarly, because Germany seems to have more small towns, it’s easier to find food. I no longer have to have a couple of meals in reserve, just in case. Gone are the days of carrying two baguettes Even the honey feels redundant — though it is delicious in porridge.
The fucking gardener wants me to tear down the tent so he can mow the entire area. I suppose I can do that for him.
11:39: At the supermarket. €8.95 for 200ml of quality UVA+UVB factor 50. I paid €12.00 for the same product in Cherbourg.
12:06:53
12:17:04
12:18:19
12:18:30: “If the unity of Germany is to emerge from the realm of dreams into reality, then no sacrifice must be too great”: Karl Anton, Prince of Hohenzollern
12:18:57
12:24:08
12:38:11
12:45: Sitting down to a salad of leeks, carrots, tomato and egg mayo, with bread and tea. And Wilkes’ Perspectives.
13:29: I’m in a bookshop looking at maps, on my way back to my tent where my washing is hanging out. There had been thunderclaps indicating rain, which has now arrived. No point me getting soaked trying to rescue my damp clothes. Oh well. I’ll just need to stay under cover.
14:34: The torrential rain’s eased off to a light, steady rain. I sat reading in the bookshop for a while, then ducked out and straight into a kebab shop where I’m having a one euro cup of tea. I’m keep to inspect the damage at the campsite. The worst that could have happened, I think, is that my fleecy (inside my rucksack) might have gotten soaked. And my little beloved Bluetooth speaker. Time for both of them to graduate to waterproof covers! I guess thunderstorms will be likely all Summer long.
When I’ve finished my tea I’ll make a break for the supermarket and choose some tasty biscuits. I have a yearning for biscuits. I haven’t had a packet for ages. In France they were a staple of my diet.
Relief maps of Germany, Europe and the World.
15:03: Ah FFS the rain had eased off but I missed my chance. Now it’s started up again. I might sit tight another day here. I’ll check the forecast. I really don’t want to have to walk in rain like I just saw.
16:04: Back in the campsite. My stuff is OK, the worst problem was that my magic carpet, which I use as my sleeping bag ground sheet, was like a lake. It was bone dry on the other side so I’ve flipped it around and now I’m going to spend some time under the basha to see how this goes. All my washing was totally soaked and needed to be wrung out. Feels like the rain is going to continue for the rest of the afternoon. At this rate, I’ll need to stay another day or half dfay in ortder to let my stuff dry out. Dinner is likely to be asparagus soup couscous.
17:55: OK, so it’s still raining gently. The sun won’t come out until sunset, according to the weather forecast. I think this forces me to stay until stuff has dried out tomorrow lunchtime. There’s due to be heavy rain tomorrow afternoon too, from about six o’clock. If I can cover 15 km in the afternoon and book myself a nice cheap Privatzimmer, having gotten everything dry in the morning, then I’ll be back on track. Need to book the Privatzimmer. I don’t need to stay in the campsite tomorrow morning in order to dry my stuff out. I can do that in the park by the river. Off to charge my phone now.
19:54: There’s a watery sun but it has no drying power. I’m going to phone a Gästezimmer in one of the places 15 km away to see if I can stay.
21:33: The light’s fading. My mat and groundsheet are still a bit damp. It’s cooler than it was yesterday. I couldn’t get through to the Privatzimmer listed in the book.
My mood is OK. Everything will dry out eventually. I’m just a bit resigned.
I ate about two-thirds of the asparagus couscous. I won’t be making that again. Thankfully all the couscous is now used up.
I don’t know where I got this idea from. My weight was amazingly stable during the journey, at around 70 to 72 kgs.↩
