07:08: Feet on the floor. Back in tramping mode.
09:09: Washed, dressed breakfasted. Packing now. I’m killing myself that I’m back in tramping mode. I had tears rolling down my cheeks as as Eric and I ate breakfast. This is much harder than leaving home and Aisling in the first place.
10:34: On the street. Warm goodbyes with Mélanie. It’s another beautiful day despite the heavy downpour before dawn this morning. I have plenty of time to enjoy my stroll to the station. I think once I’m out of the environment I’ve spent the last week sharing with Aisling, my mood will lift. That’s also the reason I want to clear out of Nancy today because for me it’s now the town of joyful anticipation. Pity I didn’t get to see the town centre proper.
11:35: On the train to Champagne-Ardennes TGV station. Aisling was able to take her TGV direct to Paris. She’s home safe and sound. The train’s just pulling away.
12:02: On the TGV at Champagne Ardennes. The day has clouded over a bit. It’s still warm. I need to take money from the wall when I get to Nancy and pick up something for dinner. Tomatoes and salad ought to do it. I’ll eat the Kettle Chips, so no need for bread, and I have giant scallions.
My heart is heavy, but it doesn’t hurt so much anymore as I draw away from Reims. As Aisling said more than once: “y
12:55: On the coach taking us to Nancy Gare. I’m keen to get moving and plan the next few days’ accommodation this evening. Some camping options would be fine, and wild camping too, if there’s a decent-sized town beyond.1
Judging by the two maps I’d spread out last night, there’s at least a week of walking left in France before I reach the Rhine. I’m looking forward to getting into the German Youth Hostel system.
13:03: Heavy clouds dropping showers ahead. 33km to Nancy. A landscape of village-topped hills of woodland and fields.
13:15: I see the first bales of cut grass in the fields.
13:22: Nancy. Hazy sun. Heavy heart.
13:30: On the street, looking for somewhere for lunch.
13:38: In a traditional Alsatian restaurant. Feels very German. It’s going to be Tarte Flambée Traditionelle.
14:15: That was good — a wafer-thin base of almost-pastry topped with a thin layer of soft white cheese, fine white onion slices and tiny lardons. €13.00.
14:24: On the road, heading South.
15:06: Outskirts. Light industrial, spots of rain.
15:15: Put my raincoat on.The spots are heavier and I’m walking into a stiffish breeze. I’m going through the motions.
15:32: Exiting Vandœuvre-lès-Nancy and entering Heillecourt.
15:45: At Lidl.
15:01: €6.14 for walnuts, raisins, familiar deodorant, two tomatoes and a salad bag.
16:33 Ludres.
17:17: Well ensconced in my AirBnB. My host Jean-Marie is lovely. He makes a point of speaking very simple French to me. I’ve just met his wife Sandra.
Itinerary for the next few days:
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My reasoning here being that the day after a wild-camping night is made much more comfortable by knowing there’s a good option for a freshen-up and food early on in the day. ↩