|||

By TGV from Reims to Nancy, then on foot to an AirBnB in Ludres

Thursday

07:08: Feet on the floor. Back in tramping mode.

09:09: Washed, dressed breakfasted. Packing now. I’m killing myself that I’m back in tramping mode. I had tears rolling down my cheeks as as Eric and I ate breakfast. This is much harder than leaving home and Aisling in the first place.

10:34: On the street. Warm goodbyes with Mélanie. It’s another beautiful day despite the heavy downpour before dawn this morning. I have plenty of time to enjoy my stroll to the station. I think once I’m out of the environment I’ve spent the last week sharing with Aisling, my mood will lift. That’s also the reason I want to clear out of Nancy today because for me it’s now the town of joyful anticipation. Pity I didn’t get to see the town centre proper.

11:35: On the train to Champagne-Ardennes TGV station. Aisling was able to take her TGV direct to Paris. She’s home safe and sound. The train’s just pulling away.

12:02: On the TGV at Champagne Ardennes. The day has clouded over a bit. It’s still warm. I need to take money from the wall when I get to Nancy and pick up something for dinner. Tomatoes and salad ought to do it. I’ll eat the Kettle Chips, so no need for bread, and I have giant scallions.

My heart is heavy, but it doesn’t hurt so much anymore as I draw away from Reims. As Aisling said more than once: y

12:55: On the coach taking us to Nancy Gare. I’m keen to get moving and plan the next few days’ accommodation this evening. Some camping options would be fine, and wild camping too, if there’s a decent-sized town beyond.1

Judging by the two maps I’d spread out last night, there’s at least a week of walking left in France before I reach the Rhine. I’m looking forward to getting into the German Youth Hostel system.

13:03: Heavy clouds dropping showers ahead. 33km to Nancy. A landscape of village-topped hills of woodland and fields.

13:15: I see the first bales of cut grass in the fields.

13:22: Nancy. Hazy sun. Heavy heart.

13:30: On the street, looking for somewhere for lunch.

13:38: In a traditional Alsatian restaurant. Feels very German. It’s going to be Tarte Flambée Traditionelle.

14:15: That was good — a wafer-thin base of almost-pastry topped with a thin layer of soft white cheese, fine white onion slices and tiny lardons. €13.00.

14:24: On the road, heading South.

15:06: Outskirts. Light industrial, spots of rain.

15:15: Put my raincoat on.The spots are heavier and I’m walking into a stiffish breeze. I’m going through the motions.

15:32: Exiting Vandœuvre-lès-Nancy and entering Heillecourt.

15:45: At Lidl.

15:01: €6.14 for walnuts, raisins, familiar deodorant, two tomatoes and a salad bag.

16:33 Ludres.

17:17: Well ensconced in my AirBnB. My host Jean-Marie is lovely. He makes a point of speaking very simple French to me. I’ve just met his wife Sandra.

Itinerary for the next few days:

  • Friday 12 May: 34km along the Moselle canal to the Municipal Camping at Charmes. 20 Rue de l’Ecluse.
  • Saturday 13 May: 28km from Charmes to an AirBnB near the station in Épinal. (2 nights)
  • Épinal tourist office opening hours for Sunday: 11:00—14:30 tourisme-epinal.com

2017-05-11/DSCN5845.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5845.JPG

2017-05-11/DSCN5846.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5846.JPG

2017-05-11/DSCN5847.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5847.JPG

2017-05-11/DSCN5848.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5848.JPG

2017-05-11/DSCN5849.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5849.JPG

2017-05-11/DSCN5850.JPG2017-05-11/DSCN5850.JPG


  1. My reasoning here being that the day after a wild-camping night is made much more comfortable by knowing there’s a good option for a freshen-up and food early on in the day. 2017-05-11/DSCN5844.JPG

Up next Reims 14:08: On the platform saying goodbye to Aisling at the door of her train, my heart broken. The sun is shining from the sky and tears are rolling From an AirBnB in Ludres to a campsite in Charmes
Latest posts Hanging out with Aisling in Zagreb Meeting Aisling in Zagreb Jesnice to the Croatian border and on to an AirBnB in Zagreb Brestanica to a campsite at Jesnice Jagnjenica to a hostel run by a former Olympian in Brestanica Zavrstnik to a garden in Jagnjenica Ljubljana to a field in Zavrstnik Kranj to Ljubljana A rest day in Kranj From Podljubelj to a hostel in Kranj From Kirschentheuer to a campsite at Podljubelj, Slovenia From Moosburg to a campsite at Kirschentheuer Gnesau to a campsite at Moosburg A rest day at a campsite at Gnesau From Turracher Höhe to a campsite at Gnesau Tamsweg to a bench outside an alpine hut at Turracher Höhe Obertauern to a campsite at Tamsweg Radstadt to a hotel in Obertauern Pfarrwerfen to a campsite near Radstadt A shopping trip to Bischofshofen from the campsite at Pfarrwerfen Planning my route over the Alps at a campsite at Pfarrwerfen From Kuchl to the campsite at Pfarrwerfen From a campsite on the northern edge of Salzburg to Kuchl and an invitation to stay with the Menneweger family Failing to be a good tourist in Salzburg Hunting for maps in Salzburg From a campsite on the south shore of the Waginger See to a campsite north of Salzburg From a campsite at Seebruck to a campsite beside a lake near Musbach Sheltering from the rain in Seebruck From a barn beyond Schonstett to a campsite at Seebruck From a field beyond Kirchseeon to a barn beyond Schonstett From München to a wild camping spot beyond Kirchseeon