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07:08: Sitting on the edge of the bed. Comfortable, happy night. Aisling and I chatted on Skype for half an hour or more last night and my misery has evaporated into the shower.
07:46: Washed and dressed, about to head down to the kitchen for my host-provided breakfast.
08:07: A terrific breakfast at the kitched counter of (Barry’s) tea, orange juice, water, a baguette, butter, cheese and ham and two jams.
The day started out bright but I can see the forecasted rain clouds closing in already. It’s probably going to be a clammy day in the raincoat, because the temperature is due to be warm.
09:07: On the road. The rain hasn’t started yet, but everything is damp. Figuring out the route to the river and canal, a few short kilometres away.
09:21: Leaving Ludres.
09:43: Hilly. Mixed woodland and crops with urban agglomerations. Shopping and light industrial units. Feels very much like a satellite town. Approaching Richardménil.
09:53: Lightning stop in Carrefour for a baguette cereals and a packet of biscuits. €2.06. The weather up ahead is looking better than I dared hope. I’m feeling confident and strong.
10:06: Passed a post office, but it’s closed. Took the opportunity to remove my trouser legs on a nearby flat rock. It’s muggy.
10:16: Leaving Richardménil.
10:21: Crossing the canal to get to the towpath; the Moselle lies just beyond — wide, forest-lined.
10:35: The sun’s come out again. The rain might hold off until after lunch.
10:31: Switched on the new Bluetooth speaker behind my head. Awesome tunes.
11:38: I’m on a D road — the paths and canals and river ways are a tangle. I’ve switched off the BT and I’m going to trek along this somewhat horrible road with earplugs in to get back onto the canal in a few kilometres. I don’t want to double-back for the sake of better scenery.
13:08: Approaching Crévéchamps. The clouds are thickening. I’m not hungry enough to stop for lunch.
13:32: Back is tired though. I’m stopping for a rest. There’s a watery sun.
13:56: Ready to move. Ate the entire bageutte with butter and alternately peanut butter and honey. Sky ahead is darkening.
14:06: Moving.
14:51: Need to turn back and cross the canal. Following random GR1 signs is not a good idea.
14:59: Back on track. No big deal. Thunderclaps. The sky is very dark.
15:07: Back to where I was at 14:51.
15:11: Here’s the rain. I did well. I’m at Neuviller-sur-Moselle.
15:27: Rain’s eased. My left hip hurts. Watery sun.
15:39: 11Km as the crow flies to Charmes and the camping. Incredibly heavy downpour ahead.
16:32: Skirting Magnonville. I’ve escaped the rain mostly so far.
16:47: Skirting Bainville-aux-Miroirs.
17:09: Stopping for the fifth or sixth time today to take stones and twigs from my shoes. I have muscle aches everywhere, from my hips to my calves. It’s sunny now. I have another couple of hours to walk to the camping I think. Looking forward to getting in. Tomorrow’s going to be tough. Reminds me, I need to check my AirBnB for tomorrow night.
17:15: Moving again.
17:49: Skirting Gripport. Under 5km to go as the crow flies. It’s really hard work. The weather is fine but I’m thirsty.
18:18: Passing Socourt. Bright and sunny. Cuckoos. Water everywhere. I’m on a dyke beside the canal with water to my left and the river to the right across the canal.
18:36: I’m creeping along.
19:16: Camping in sight.
19:25: Checked in. Damian is the manager. €7.00 for the night. €1.00 for a baguette for lunch and €2.50 for a Magnum Almond. I’m sitting in the sun in a spot near the shower block. Very relieved to have arrived.
19:31: Delicious. I’m about to check out the shower block — this place doesn’t get glowing reviews — but first, get some layers on. I’ve been so lucky to escape the thundery downpours today. There’s more of the same forecast for the next three or four days so let’s see how my luck holds out.
20:01: Some Telegram2, AirBnB and Twitter interaction. I’m going to pitch the basha, get some water and eat the curry that Aisling bought for me.
20:13: Phone battery at 40% after five or more hours of Bluetooth and half an hour of interaction on 4G. Recharging it now off the battery. My calves and the muscles on my shins are aching the worst. Feet and hips are OK. The air is decidedly damp. My AirBnB for E3 has fallen through. The host never responded. I guess that price was too good to be true. I feel really tired.
20:45: OK, ready to start on dinner.
21:05: Wow that lentils-in-a-bag curry was really terrific — filling, tasty and incredibly quick to prepare. Need to keep an eye out for those in future.4
Damian came up to me as I was getting the cooking utensils out and in a very concerned voice asked me if I was going to be OK during the night. He offered me his “little caravan” for free but I declined. I actually like the rawness and snugness of sleeping under my basha. If anything, I’ll be too warm tonight in this muggy weather. He probably thinks I’m really hardcore when in fact I’m just enjoying my solitude.
Right, washing-up time. The light is fading but I’ve plenty of time.
21:32: Laying out the bag and bivvy. I’m looking forward to being in there!
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Grandes Randonnées, the French walking trail network.↩
Aisling and I use Telegram Messenger.↩
I’d forgotten the rest of the name.↩
I never saw that product in any shops anywhere else in Europe, even though Aisling had bought the one she gave me in Lidl or Aldi. 
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