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I woke at 06:59 but I’m so comfortable I decided to sleep for another hour. It’s now 08:05 and I’m about to start breaking camp. I haven’t decided when or where to get breakfast.
09:01 All packed away, ready to move on. No breakfast, no toothbrushing. Socks only dampened by wiping down the exterior of the basha. Proper sock wash required. It’s overcast and raining lightly, but I expect it to turn into a nice day. I’m going to see if I can find a campsite at the next place.1
09:12 Dropped in to reception to grovel and pay for my pitch. That was the opposite of ugly - they let me go for free with huge smiles all around.
09:49 Travelled the main street of La Haye-du-Puits looking for an egg breakfast. No such option. I’ll grab a few croissants.
09:56:48 
10:00:12
10:08 Three croissants down and I’m still not satisfied! Gonna hit the road and [text obliterated by rain] the trail.
10:27 On the trail finally. Heading East for the first time. Weather looks foreboding.
10:53:49
11:18 Raining lightly but steadily.
12:02:35 
12:13:22 
12:14:24
12:28 The rain has abated slightly so I’m stopping for lunch. I need a waterproof pen. Lunch was 15 mins. Cheese and butter on the last one-third of the fluffy roll I bought in a village yesterday.
13:11 Fifteen minute detour into Saint Jores to see if there’s a restaurant here - there isn’t. Onwards.
13:15 7°C but seems to be brightening. Mood good.
13:45 Stopped to get 450 calories of butter biscuits into me. When I sat on my bag, something popped loudly. Hope it’s not one of the expensive waterproof bags. Checking now… A watery sun has appeared.
13:56 Went through everything in the top of the bag. No evidence of burst waterproof bags.
14:26 Carentan: 9km.
14:45:47
15:00 Stopped to take a stone out of my shoe and eat another six biscuits.
15:04:00
15.15 6km to Carentan.
16:10 Arrived on the outskirts - feels very urban - flyovers, train tracks, apartment blocks. Hope I can find the camping. I’ve found a bench and I’m folding the map. It’s still a very murky day.
16:32 Moving towards the town centre. I’ll ask around. Got the name and address on the camping locations map from the last place. Horrible evening.
16:33 Temperate is dropping and rain is spitting.
17:52 Booked myself into a hotel for two nights - €39 per night.2
17:54 Quick call with Aisling. Basha and magic carpet3 hung out to dry in the shower. Today’s socks washed. Figuring out if I ought to change and bring a couple of items to the laverie automatique or if I should just go out to dinner with a book. I popped a new blister on the pad of my right foot to the left of all the others.
So what are all these different classes of restaurant and accommodation? I’m about to go and check in the guidebook. Later. First figure out how to wash clothes.4
19:33 I’m lounging, exhausted5, on the bed wearing fresh clothes and letting this week’s dirty pile sit there on the floor. I’ll bring it to the laverie automatique tomorrow morning.
19:37 It’s pouring outside.
20:32 Made some notes on varieties of accommodation to reduce my day-to-day anxieties about this.
20:40 Dinner was the last of the cheese and the last of the biscuits.
[*] waterproof pens
Get the hotel WiFi code.
20:55 I’m acknowledging that I’m in a bit of a tizzy about having decided to stay two nights in this hotel. I’m going to bed now.
Today’s destination is the town of Carentan, due East of La Haye-du-Puits.↩
I’d found the tourist office on the way to the camping, which a guy in the bicycle shop had indicated was near the church. At the tourist office the lady told me the camping was closed for another few days until the start of the season. I knew this was probably the case, but that if I were to call in there, I might find a pitch. With the grey day though - and given my state of mind, I got the her to recommend a cheap place to stay in the town. A hotel near the station (a few steps from the main square) had rooms for €30 a night. I decided to drop by and take a look in case it was super-grim. When I got there, the €30 room was occupied so I took the next cheapest at €39 and then proceeded to best myself up over it. In my room, I showered, washed both pairs of my socks and dressed in clean, dry clothes. I watched a heavy shower come down just after sunset. Dinner was a picnic of the last of the biscuits and cheese.↩
A 150x150cm ground sheet.↩
Actually, decipher the instructions on the wall in the laverie automatique. The women in the tourist office directed me there so I’d eyeballed the setup.↩
Something about the day had really got in at me. I think I’d spent the day making to-do lists in my head which I couldn’t execute on. I couldn’t even sit down during the day nor put my bag down because everything on the trail was soaked. There was something about the combination of weather conditions and my mental state that conspired against me. It’s only a day later as I transcribe my original notes, so I don’t have the perspective yet to figure out a suitable strategy. I expect just doing this for a few more weeks will make it easier.↩
