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07:05: I’m awake, but I’m gonna give myself another few minutes of a lie-in before I go to get washed.
07:27: Getting in the shower now.
08:16: Eating breakfast. I’ll be able to get out of here by 09:00 if I can get a new AirBnB booked or submitted for Freiburg.
08:50: Done. The one with the 11 year old is cancelled and a full refund issued. Let’s get going!
09:49: Walking out the door.
10:48: Through the old centre one more time and now out into farmland. Small fields. I’m about to cross the main road.
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11:06: Walking through a wood. It’s packed with joggers and families out with the kids on bikes. It’s the first time I’ve been in such a well-used wood.
11:32: Entering the village of Sundhoffen — which for the first time includes a minority language on the signboard: “Sundhofa”.
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11:39: 17°C says a sign. I’m in shorts and a t-shirt.
11:46: Stop for a quick rest and a glug of water. Breakfast this morning at the hostel (write about Olivier trying to circumvent the web nanny on the wifi provided by the Mairie)1 was two tubs of fruit mash, some crunchy nuggets, two cups of tea and a slice of bread cake. I took a piece of baguette but had to spit it out. My body just can’t cope with any more bread. Today’s lunch will be soup and couscous with a scallion and an apple.
12:03: A kindly, ruddy-faced gent pulled up and set me on a stretch of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela. It’s a gorgeous walk through a flat landscape of fields and forest. I can see the mountains of the Black Forest on the horizon.
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12:30: Stopping for lunch.
12:57: Wow, that was an amazing success. Two sachets of Royco cup-a-soup in 600ml water (200ml per sachet plus 200ml for the pot). I chucked in the sachets and a few doses of couscous when the water had come to the boil, stirred for a bit, sliced a washed scallion into it and hey presto a tasty and nourishing lunch that was neither cheese nor bread. Hallelujah! Only thing is, there’s a bit more rigmarole to cooking and cleaning. I don’t care — it’s not bread and cheese! Wish I’d discovered this one a month ago.2
13:22: Washed, packed, bag on. Entirely sated. Ready to move. 4km in a straight line on the flat to Wolfgantzen.
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14:06: I’m very happy. Blissful, content.
14:25: Entering Wolfgantzen.
14:41: Leaving Wolfgantzen.
14:51: Entering Neuf-Brisach.
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15:04: Hey, there’s a restaurant/creperie/brasserie open! I’m gonna chill on the terrace for a bit. No rush getting to the camping. Neuf-Brisach is defended by 18th Century fortifications.3
15:46: Two hot chocolates and three scoops of ice-cream later (dark chocolate, yoghurt and speculoos), I’m ready to walk the last five or so kilometres to the camping. Looking at MAPS.ME, I see the border runs to the East of it, so I’ll have one last night on French soil!
The day is spectacular, with a strong breeze. I didn’t put on any sun block but I ought to do that now for the last stretch. That was a real treat. I’m really chuffed with myself.
15:52: Moving again.
16:04: Exited Neuf-Brisach. I’ve sprayed by (burnt) right arm in factor 50.
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16:04: Entering Volgelsheim. I’m thinking I’ll press on to the camping further East.4
16:28: Exiting Volgelsheim. Next stop, camping!
16:48: Crossing the Rhine Canal.
17:26: At the camping! I’ve had my first view of Germany across the Rhine. Brisach-am-Rhein looks very imposing. I was greeted at the campsite by Sophie, who greeted me warmly and indicated the best spots for tents. I’m going to set up now.
19:11: Basha set up after much dicking around trying to find a spot that was flat, not rock hard and not stony and oriented correctly to the wind. Then I ate crackers with cheese and butter and honey without much relish but with hunger. I’m going to check in now. €10.00 for the night. Hope I sleep.
20:54: Lovely freshly-made salad for €6.00 and a chat with Sophie and her husband, who run the campsite, at the campsite caféteria. She’s a lovely vibey character. I’m delighted to get some vegetables down me.
21:27: Getting ready for bed. I’m going to try the sleeping bag with no bivvy tonight to see how that goes.
One year on, I have no idea what this was about anymore.↩
Actually, I had, but I’d never cooked couscous while camping or while stopping for lunch. Dry couscous is heavy though, so I got out of the habit of carrying it after I left France.↩
Neuf-Brisach is an extraordinary 17th Century fortified town, now a UNESCO World Heritage site.↩
That intention didn’t last ten minutes.↩
