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Radstadt to a hotel in Obertauern

Wednesday

08:05: Washed and dressed and socks washed. My t-shirt is beginning to stink. I’m going to pack the bag and bivvy and make breakfast.

09:30: On the road. I’ve decided to skip visiting the chemist. I’ll just get some stuff in Penny1 on the way through Radstadt. I have fish and bread and butter, I just need something like cheese and honey. I burnt the shit out of my nose yesterday.

09:53: €4.35 for an Apfelsaft gespritzt, scallions, yoghurt, soup tray containing carrots, 150g Edam slices. The yoghurt and Apfelsaft are for now.

10:13:0410:13:04

10:40: While I was cooking breakfast, the gas tin I’d bought yesterday lost pressure almost entirely. I passed an Intersport a moment ago and bought a smaller (standard) size Primus-brand can and dumped the other one at the checkout. The can I bought in Caen Decathlon was Primus and lasted me until just a few days ago.

10:49: €5.45 for a tube of UVA+UVB factor 50.

10:53: Leaving Radstadt.

11:02: At 833 metres.

11:23:3511:23:35 11:38:5611:38:56 11:39:25: Yes, it really is an enormous chair.11:39:25: Yes, it really is an enormous chair. 11:45:4011:45:40 11:48:1711:48:17 12:01:0512:01:05 12:14:2812:14:28 12:29:2612:29:26

12:32: I’ve been on a cycle path for at least an hour, running alongside a brook. This is much more pleasant than yesterday. The valley is beautiful and the day is scorching. I’m at 931 metres.

12:43: Outskirts of Untertauern. Time to swap maps shortly.

13:05:5413:05:54

13:05: Doing the map folding. I’ll be ready to stop for lunch soon enough too.

13:19: Moving again.

13:36: Stopped for lunch. I’m chomping raw carrot and swiping away horseflies.

14:10: Moving again.

14:25:5914:25:59 14:26:0814:26:08 14:27:2614:27:26

14:28: Stopping for an ice cream at a park. €3.90.

14:40:47: As I was eating my ice cream, this wild boar and her piglet wandered through the park.14:40:47: As I was eating my ice cream, this wild boar and her piglet wandered through the park. 14:41:0514:41:05 14:57:1014:57:10 14:58:2614:58:26

15:02: At 1097 metres.

15:05:0415:05:04

15:30: 1301 metres.

15:57: 1413 metres. (The pass is 1738 metres.)

16:01:5716:01:57 16:07:0916:07:09

16:18: Obertauern town limit. 1520 metres. Descending again.

16:56:2516:56:25

17:36: Everything in the town is shut. The tourist office closed at 16:30, SPAR closed at 16:00. The only hotels that are open are five-star places. I need water, otherwise I’m good to bunk down somewhere discreet for the night.2

17:41:4717:41:47

18:00: I checked into a hotel! The first one since somewhere in France, I think. €50 with breakfast. I’m about to wash myself, my jocks, t-shirt and maybe shorts.

22:16: Pure, pure luxury. I’m going to sleep now.


  1. …something for breakfast, not for my fungal toenail!

  2. I checked out the backs of some buildings to see if I could find a grassy spot that wasn’t overlooked, but didn’t have any luck. Once I’d set foot in the lobby of a hotel, it was very hard to walk out. First, I asked if they had a spot where I could camp, (they didn’t) then I tried to bargain on price, and eventually my resolve gave way and I stumped up the cash.

Up next Pfarrwerfen to a campsite near Radstadt Obertauern to a campsite at Tamsweg
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