08:05: Washed and dressed and socks washed. My t-shirt is beginning to stink. I’m going to pack the bag and bivvy and make breakfast.
09:30: On the road. I’ve decided to skip visiting the chemist. I’ll just get some stuff in Penny1 on the way through Radstadt. I have fish and bread and butter, I just need something like cheese and honey. I burnt the shit out of my nose yesterday.
09:53: €4.35 for an Apfelsaft gespritzt, scallions, yoghurt, soup tray containing carrots, 150g Edam slices. The yoghurt and Apfelsaft are for now.
10:13:04
10:40: While I was cooking breakfast, the gas tin I’d bought yesterday lost pressure almost entirely. I passed an Intersport a moment ago and bought a smaller (standard) size Primus-brand can and dumped the other one at the checkout. The can I bought in Caen Decathlon was Primus and lasted me until just a few days ago.
10:49: €5.45 for a tube of UVA+UVB factor 50.
10:53: Leaving Radstadt.
11:02: At 833 metres.
11:23:35
11:38:56
11:39:25: Yes, it really is an enormous chair.
11:45:40
11:48:17
12:01:05
12:14:28
12:29:26
12:32: I’ve been on a cycle path for at least an hour, running alongside a brook. This is much more pleasant than yesterday. The valley is beautiful and the day is scorching. I’m at 931 metres.
12:43: Outskirts of Untertauern. Time to swap maps shortly.
13:05:54
13:05: Doing the map folding. I’ll be ready to stop for lunch soon enough too.
13:19: Moving again.
13:36: Stopped for lunch. I’m chomping raw carrot and swiping away horseflies.
14:10: Moving again.
14:25:59
14:26:08
14:27:26
14:28: Stopping for an ice cream at a park. €3.90.
14:40:47: As I was eating my ice cream, this wild boar and her piglet wandered through the park.
14:41:05
14:57:10
14:58:26
15:02: At 1097 metres.
15:05:04
15:30: 1301 metres.
15:57: 1413 metres. (The pass is 1738 metres.)
16:01:57
16:07:09
16:18: Obertauern town limit. 1520 metres. Descending again.
16:56:25
17:36: Everything in the town is shut. The tourist office closed at 16:30, SPAR closed at 16:00. The only hotels that are open are five-star places. I need water, otherwise I’m good to bunk down somewhere discreet for the night.2
17:41:47
18:00: I checked into a hotel! The first one since somewhere in France, I think. €50 with breakfast. I’m about to wash myself, my jocks, t-shirt and maybe shorts.
22:16: Pure, pure luxury. I’m going to sleep now.
…something for breakfast, not for my fungal toenail!↩
I checked out the backs of some buildings to see if I could find a grassy spot that wasn’t overlooked, but didn’t have any luck. Once I’d set foot in the lobby of a hotel, it was very hard to walk out. First, I asked if they had a spot where I could camp, (they didn’t) then I tried to bargain on price, and eventually my resolve gave way and I stumped up the cash.↩