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11:46: On my way to breakfast after a fun morning chatting with Valentina (26 year old philosophy student1) about philosophy, language, culture and good reads. I stopped to have a haircut and shave. HRK 70; about €10.
11:49:11
12:04: HRK 13:50 for an average ham and cheese sandwich.
12:15:34
12:19: HRK 28 for tea and apple juice. I’ve decided not to walk to the airport to collect Aisling, but to take the bus instead.
Open Gardens2
- Basaričekova 11
- Demetrova 11
- Opatička 19
- Opatička 20,29
- Radićeva 54 -> tunnel
- Visoka 8
18:00 - 00:00
- Strossmayerovo šetalište art park
- Tunnel under the city
13:42:21 
13:42:40 
13:43:08 
13:44:34
14:08: Leaving for the airport. Tram to the bus station, then bus to the airport.
14:19: HRK 98.90 to send the Slovenia map book to my mum.3
14:31:47
14:47: At the bus station. You buy a ticket for the airport bus on the bus. It leaves at 15:00.
14:56: HRK 16 apple drink.
15:28: HRK 30 for the bus ticket. Approaching the airport now.
15:52: HRK 36 for a chai latte and a spinach burek.
17:09: With Aisling! HRK 88 for coffees and walnut cake.4
17:24: HRK 60 for bus tickets into town.
18:16: HRK 60 for taxi from the bus station to our AirBnB in Medvedgradska ulica.
19:30:18
19:54: Cocktail and ½+½ juice: HRK 15+36
19:59:26
20:00:39
20:51: HRK 120 for ćevapčići and veal kebab + 2 iced teas.
MASAŽ5
20:59:38 
20:59:54 
21:00:15
…and my AirBnB host.↩︎
This list of private gardens in the city, which open to visitors annually at this time of year, is written in Valentina’s handwriting in my notebook.↩︎
I don’t think I tore out the pages for the parts of the country I knew I wouldn’t reach. I was brought up with too much respect for books to do that! Plus, you know, I didn’t want to limit my options. In all though, writing this footnote years later, I’m surprised I hadn’t switched fully to maps on my mobile phone. By this stage I was using MAPS.ME, a closed-source Android app based on Open Street Map mapping data, for most day-to-day navigation. Croatia was the last country in which I bought paper maps. The quality of the two maps I bought in Croatia was so terrible (they were incomplete and inaccurate) that I switched fully to maps on my phone after that.↩︎
Not a word about how I felt meeting her! Let’s just say I was totally delighted to be in her company again for the first time since we’d parted in Reims on 10 May. Since then I’d walked all the way across Germany, crossed the Alps in Austria and walked the length of Slovenia too. By now I felt like I knew what I was doing; I’d toughened up and was thoroughly enjoying the walk. I’m still eternally grateful to Aisling for giving me the space to go on this crazy adventure.↩︎
“Massage”. I must have seen it written down somewhere.↩︎
