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A rest day in Crépy-en-Valois

06:50: Awake. Spent a long time mulling on ways to make this trip less dependent on contingencies. My head is fit to explode. I want to

08:29: I’m eating breakfast from the buffet. For the sake of €7.00 it’s ridiculous to cook porridge in my room.

09:50: Moving back to my room for a bit. Feeling addled.

10:09: €66.00 for a second night here, this morning’s and tomorrow’s breakfast.

The problems I’m facing

Food and water

  • I cannot carry more than about 24 hours of food; lunch, dinner, breakfast, lunch. I can carry many breakfasts; how to make lunch and dinner more like that?
  • Towns are effective deserts after 16:30. Bars (if any) may provide water after this time.
  • Villages are effective deserts at all times. Churchyards may provide outside taps. Need to investigate this more.
  • Towns of more than 10k inhabitants are likely to have supermarkets.

Accomodation

Wild camping

  • Forests. Wild boar attacks are vanishingly rare.
  • Free: just need food and water.

Camping Municipal

  • camping-municipal.org is unusable on mobile.
  • Cheap: typically €10.00
  • Just need food.
  • Closer to towns?

Commercial camping

  • campingfrance.com.
  • Less cheap: typically €20.00
  • Far out?
  • Just need food.
  • Search is good.

AirBnB

  • Need to reserve days in advance.
  • Search is good.

Chambres d’Hotes

  • Mostly out of my budget: >€50/night

Local Tourist Offices

  • Only available in towns >10k inhabitants.
  • Only available until 17:00.
  • Super-helpful staff.

17:34: Settled into my first proper Salon de thé. It’s pleasant but pricey. I got a lovely welcome. I’m coming down out of orbit. This shit is hard, stop pretending it isn’t. Tomorrow evening I’ll plan the part of the journey beyond La Ferte Sous Jouarre.

Later this evening (and perhaps tomorrow evening) I’ll transcribe and upload another day or two from Notebook 2. When it’s fully transcribed I’ll send it in the post — along with a memory stick of all the photos I’ve taken so far — to Aisling.

18:00: Fuck’s sake, they’re closing up. €3.80 for a delicious cup of real tea that I’d have loved to have had the chance to really savour.

19:32: Heading back to the hotel. Spent a pleasant hour and a half sitting in a nice bar in a sunny window reading and listening to tunes. I’m still experiencing waves of almost-nausea about the next few days. I just have to notice the sensations and live my life as it unfolds.

19:44: Just walked past Hotel St. Ladre where it’s €37 for a single. What’s a sure-fire way to Google for hotels in a given town?1

20:03: Back in the hotel room.

23:23: Back in bed. I spent the time transcribing notebook entries.


  1. The short answer is, there isn’t one. If I search on Google Maps for this local hotel by name, I find it. If I search for the generic term hotel”, it doesn’t show up.

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