From Dormans to Épernay

Monday

07:25: First woke at 06:40, got up maybe ten minutes later. I’m dressed now, teeth brushed and socks washed. It’s 1°C, too cold to take a shower in the unheated shower block. About to pack my sleeping bag away, then I’ll boil up some warming porridge.

08:02: Porridge eaten, washed up, now packing my bag. Today’s destination: Épernay municipal camping, 25km away along the river. I have ingredients for lunch, I just need to buy bread and something for dinner. Hopefully I’ll find a little supermarket in Dormans — I have to walk through the town anyway.

08:46: Leaving the camping to cross the bridge into Dormans for some shopping.

09:00: €2.30 for two multi-grain baguettes. Some butter would be nice too.

09:26: Leaving Dormans.

09:31: Turned south away from the river to get in amongst the vineyards and onto the GR. Entered Vassieux. It’s a bright sunny day with high, high wispy cirrus but I’m still not warm. A hike up the hill will sort me out. There’s no wind to speak of.

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09:44: Leaving Vassieux.

09:53: Shed my first layer: my raincoat. My bones are still cold.

10:02: Vassy. Shedding my fleecy. I’m warm now. The turn for the GR is just around the corner.¹

10:15: On the GR, heading east. Stopping to fold the next map.

10:25: Done. Ready to move on.

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11:00: Two young deer just came galloping towards me, following a curve in the path. They veered off into the woods flanking the path when they saw me.

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11:32: Stopping for an apple and a kiwi for elevenses. Skipped the kiwi; too complicated. Ate the other apple instead.

12:00: Found a beautiful spot above a steeply sloped vineyard (so steep I can hardly see it) overlooking the Marne river valley to the north. I’m going to eat my mackerel. The town of Troissy lies below. The day is clear but the wind is nippy. I can hear the church bell pealing.

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12:37: Moving again.

“I need villages of at least 2k inhabitants in order to be able to find a boulangerie and vegetable shop at least.”

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13:08: Dropping down to the river valley again, though Cerseuil.

13:15: Mareuil-le-Port.

13:30: Leaving Mareuil-le-Port and immediately entering Port-à-Binson. Stopping to put factor fifty on my legs.

13:53: Posted the previous map to my mum. Crossed the river to the north bank to follow the GR for a bit. Left Port-à-Binson.

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16:01: I’ve followed the bank to Damery. I’m going to have a gander here for a supermarket to get some bits for dinner.

16:27: Shopping done in a corner shop: €13.90 for yoghurts, cheese, butter, biscuits, salad bag.

16:36: Sitting down to enjoy some yoghurts.

16:49: Moving again. Delish.

18:03: Mareuil.

18:13: Entering Épernay.

18:15: At the camping.

18:45: It’s officially closed, but the scowling proprietress pointed me to a promontory on the river deep in the campsite where no-one can see me. It’s perfect. She also sorted me out with water refills in the gents’ loos of the soccer ground next door, where I also took the opportunity to rinse the top I wore last night and today. I’m going to put on some layers and eat dinner! Sunset is at about a quarter to nine.

Planning

20:58: That’s it, I’ve eaten the second baguette with butter, mild blue cheese, maché (lamb’s leaf lettuce) and shallot, followed by a packet of 16 half-coated sablé biscuits. Dusk is falling and the basha is pitched and bag and bivvy laid out. It’s lovely to have the whole promontory to myself! I can hear the occasional train running along the track parallel to the Marne. I can hear four different teams of footballers practicing in two different sports grounds and some faraway traffic noises. There are clouds of insects about but I’ve covered my face in DEET so that seems to be keeping them off. It’s going to be a cold night and a damp day tomorrow according to the forecast.

I realised earlier I could have posted the rather heavy notebook back to Ireland today because I finished transcribing it in Bruno’s. Oh well. 33 kilometres day tomorrow to another municipal camping. Perhaps I should telephone in advance to find out if they’re open. I thought they’d all be open by the first week or two of April. OK, light’s fading. Shoes off and into bed. I’ll keep a couple of layers on tonight.

Oh, one last thing: at the time I was fetching water for tonight and breakfast, I rinsed my black “Surfanic” brand top. I felt it a moment ago — it’s dry enough to wear — I’m wearing it now. What an awesome bit of clothing. €10 in Aldi about five years ago.