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From somewhere in the Celtic Sea to the youth hostel in Cherbourg

07:17 Dodgy tum. Decided I probably ought to skip breakfast too. I don’t feel queasy, but I did have a hot sweaty night under the quilt and I was kept awake by some loud rattles.

08:20 Washed, dressed, socks washed, mat given a wipe1. Drank a litre of water. I’ll probably fast for the day2 even though my energy is quite low. My mood is good though.

08:47 Out on deck for a bit. Decide to get a cuppa. €4.60 for a croissant and cuppa. There’s a peculiar pong in the restaurant lounge so the croissant may have to wait until dry land.

09:12 More snaps on Twitter. My God that croissant is good!

09:54 €3.49 for a batch-rotate photo editor app3. French coast in sight to starboard. I’m rotating images like billy-oh. Ought to go and pack my bag. Croissant sitting very well. Misty and overcast ahead.

10:14 Move to vacate my cabin.

10:36 Effectively docked. Putting the hostel address in my GPS.

11:07 Landed! Through security and customs. Onto the street and GPS on!

11:12 It’s dry and mild and the sun is peeping out from behind the high overcast. I only remembered Aisling’s letter to me a moment before disembarking. What a wonderful message4.

11:42:4411:42:44 11:44:4111:44:41 11:45:0611:45:06 11:45:2711:45:27

12:04 Checked in at the youth hostel. €46.60 for two nights!

12:40:3012:40:30

12:45 Jambon et fromage €2.90 in a pâtisserie. No salad, no tea or coffee, no seats. There’s a stone bench outside. Everything is quiet and closed.

12:45:3312:45:33 12:48:0812:48:08 12:50:5512:50:55 12:56:4612:56:46

13:03 That filled a hole! I’m navigating crow-flies to another café to get something more substantial and to find the centre de ville.

13:03:50: I reckoned spotting this place was a good omen. I didn’t eat there, though!13:03:50: I reckoned spotting this place was a good omen. I didn’t eat there, though! 13:09:4113:09:41

13:38 Having the lunchtime special in the cheapest local food place I could find that’s open. Filet de dorade et risotto cremeaux and a cup of tea. And a second cup of tea. €18.10 + €2 tip. (The fish dish was only €12.50 and it was outstandingly delicious.)

13:55:0113:55:01

15:00 I can hear the subsonic rumble of the ferry’s motor and from where I sit in the restaurant Le Mistral”, overlooking the marina, I can see the ferry at its mooring beyond. I’ve spent the last hour and a half eating and reading Being a beast”. Charles Foster’s writing is completely sublime. My eyes are defocusing and I’m contemplating whether to find a patisserie or to visit the submarine. I’ll have another look in the guidebook for Sunday entertainment options in Cherbourg.

15:10 Getting the bill. I’ll see if I can find a pâtisserie with seating and while away another hour or two.

15:37 Scoffed the Curly-wurly that Aisling gave me. The battery in the Garmin has died. I’ll try to find the convenience stores I passed on the way into town, or Lidl if it’s walkable.

15:58 Found the park containing the Museum Emmanuel Liais - a 19th century geological, zoological and ethnographic museum. A real treat and a hidden gem. €2.00 entry fee.

17:13:3817:13:38 17:14:2117:14:21 17:20:1117:20:11 17:20:2217:20:22 17:21:3617:21:36

17:42 €4.00 for four AA batteries: les pilles.

17:49:3217:49:32 17:53:0617:53:06 17:57:0117:57:01 17:58:1917:58:19 17:58:5217:58:52 17:59:4917:59:49

18:23 Another visit to the same patisserie - €4.45 for a Quiche Lorraine and two exquisite-looking cakes, chosen for me by the girl behind the counter. The public loos in the park don’t have wash hand basins so no touching dessert until I get back to the youth hostel.

18:29:10: The trilobites are extinct.18:29:10: The trilobites are extinct. 18:30:5218:30:52 18:36:5718:36:57

19:01:2219:01:22 19:15:1319:15:13

19:32 Setting out for Lidl5.

20:04 Lidl in sight, but lights out. Pity.

20:42 Sitting down to dhal, rice, chapati. €15.00 with tip.

21:28:4521:28:45

22:50 Getting ready for bed. Looking forward to a good sleep.


  1. For some reason the inflatable mat is very prone to absorbing muck into its outer layer.

  2. Note how much food I actually get through during the day. It’s no wonder my tum still hasn’t quite settled.

  3. …from the Play Store on my phone.

  4. Aisling gave me an envelope just before I got on the ferry. It contained a beautiful message wishing me success on my adventure and granting me freedom to step out unfettered. There were also two colour-saturated prints of photos we’d taken of ourselves at the pyramidal summit of Errigal mountain in Donegal, which we’d climbed twice in as many days a year or two previously. The last item in the envelope was a Curly-Wurly toffee and chocolate bar. The letter and photos stayed in my bag all the way to Istanbul. Today the bag is in the cupboard, sun-bleached and grubby, but otherwise in perfect nick, waiting for the next adventure and with the letter and photos securely shoved down the inner sleeve at the back.

  5. I got directions from the gent at the reception desk in the youth hostel.

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